The history of the replica watch is as old as the industry it seeks to imitate. The practice of creating counterfeit timepieces dates back to the 18th century, with the roots of this deceptive trade firmly planted in the very places that would later become synonymous with horological excellence. At this time, British watchmakers were at the forefront of the industry, and counterfeiters in Germany and Switzerland began producing watches falsely signed with the names of famous English makers like George Graham and Eardley Norton.
In the 19th century, the forgery of watches continued, with Breguet being a frequent target. The Swiss watch industry also began imitating American watches, particularly those from Waltham, in the 1860s. These imitations not only used the brand names but also closely mimicked the appearance of the genuine articles.
While the forgery of watches has a long history, the modern replica watch industry, as we know it today, became more widespread and popular in the 1980s, driven by Asian manufacturers who were able to produce high-quality replicas at affordable prices.
The Swiss Paradox: From Counterfeiters to Champions of Authenticity
In the 18th and 19th centuries, while Britain’s watchmakers were considered the global standard, counterfeiters in Germany and French-speaking Switzerland began producing watches falsely branded with the names of celebrated English makers. This was a form of deceptive branding designed to capitalize on the reputation of others.
The tables turned in the 1860s when the American watch industry, particularly companies like Waltham, began to gain strength. Swiss manufacturers, in an effort to compete with the rising US market, started producing imitations of American watches, not just copying their names but also their designs. This practice was short-lived, as the Swiss industry could not compete with American mass production. Instead, they strategically pivoted, focusing on branding high-end status symbols and reclaiming their reputation as masters of luxury craftsmanship.
This pivot laid the groundwork for a complete reversal of Switzerland’s stance on counterfeiting. Having once been an epicenter of watch forgery, the Swiss government and industry began a concerted effort to protect their intellectual property. Today, Switzerland has some of the most stringent laws against counterfeiting in the world. The country’s legal framework, including the Trade Mark Protection Act, explicitly prohibits the import, export, and trade of counterfeit goods. Swiss customs officials are empowered to seize and destroy fake watches, and those caught dealing in them for commercial gain can face serious penalties, including prison sentences and significant fines.
The Rise of China: From Workshop to World Leader
The modern replica watch industry as we know it today is a different beast entirely, driven by the rise of mass production in Asia. While Hong Kong was a major hub for counterfeiting in the mid-20th century, the industry’s center of gravity shifted to mainland China in the 1980s and 90s as the country’s economy opened up.
This was a pivotal moment. With a highly efficient supply chain, advanced manufacturing capabilities, and a vast labor force, Chinese factories were able to produce replicas on an unprecedented scale. Guangzhou, in particular, became a global nucleus for the trade, with sprawling markets dedicated to the sale of watches, many of them counterfeit.
The Chinese replica market has evolved dramatically over the decades. What began with low-quality fakes—easily distinguished by their sloppy movements and cheap materials—has transformed into an industry of incredible sophistication. Today, “super clones” or “super fakes” are produced that are so convincing they can fool even knowledgeable enthusiasts. These replicas are built with high-quality materials like sapphire crystal and solid steel, and they often use movements that are nearly indistinguishable from the genuine article. This level of quality and a fraction of the cost have allowed China to dominate the global replica market, producing an estimated 30 to 40 million counterfeit watches each year, far outpacing the legitimate output of the Swiss watch industry.